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Oscillate Wildly

  Editorial Review

Editorial Review

Wander off the main drag of Newtown and you'll find a petite eatery packed with passion. The tiny interior of Oscillate Wildly is always crammed to the pressed-tin roof, buzzing with the chatter of happy guests and great music. Capturing the cosmopolitan culture and grittiness of Newtown, its black-and-white checked floors and simple assortment of tables indicate the focus here is on the food. With hardly enough room to oscillate, it's a jovial atmosphere where diners are packed in like sardines - but all the happier for it. Owner Ross Godfrey opened the restaurant five years ago, with the humble intention of creating a “little back-street bistro”; but the word has spread and that quiet, neighbourhood eatery is no longer. With a swag of accolades under its stylish belt, Oscillate Wildly has been booked out for the past four years, attracting an eclectic assortment of clientele. Ross, a self-professed Smiths tragic, named his culinary love-child after an instrumental ode to Oscar Wilde - hinting that things here are done with a little more soul than most.

Ross has given the young brigade of chefs full reign over the menu, allowing them to concoct some cracking creations and often leading to some rather unexpected (but palate pleasing) surprises on the plate. The spotlight is on contemporary cuisine, with shout-outs to Spanish and American fare. Dabble in the delights of the eight-course degustation, which currently includes dishes such as the duck with sassafras, sweet potato and cinnamon, and the hibiscus with long pepper, ginger and coriander. Food like this demands a decent drop - whether from the restaurant's bar or a brown paper bag. With just 28 seats, Oscillate Wildly is typically booked out up to two months in advance, but persistent punters can put their names on the waiting list in case of cancellations.

Lauren Barker, September 2008